Saturday, October 31, 2009

ON THE ROAD AGAIN in South Australia


FLEURIEU PENINSULA

Three months down the track and back on the road again - seems more like an eon. All the usual stresses and strains managed to creep back after the wonderful Spanish and Uk trip -so the idea of a few extra days to 'chill out' before and after a conference in Adelaide was gratefully accepted. Anyway, the other truth is that the trip evolved an opportunity to celebrate the 60th birthday of my dear friend Suzanne.

It's always good to be back in the 'city of churches' - broad sweeping streets, ordered traffic and a somewhat 'mediterranean' air about the climate. My first instinct is to head for the Central Market to feast my eyes upon the beautifully laid out gastronomic delights, however on this occasion after a rendezvous at their city apartment, Suzanne, Gary and the two poodles Ari and Agtet (named after the philosopher Aristotle and photographer Agtet) the gang set out for Victor Harbour about 80 kms down on the Fleurieu Peninsula. The drive down evokes fond memories of my two years in Adelaide in the 80's when I had cause to spend many a relaxing weekend at 'duck cottage' on at Second Valley.

After a good night's sleep and attention to the Saturday morning shopping rituals we made our way down to the Anchorage for a coffee and cake. Being at Victor Harbour brought back a few memories of Eastbourne and the Costa Geriatrica ... the place is fast being taken over by retirees and their accoutrement. Overlooking the sea we (that is photographers Gary
and myself') were visually drawn to the deserted bowling club on the waterfront. As valuable property, these have now become quite a common sight as property values skyrocket and clubs are unable to sustain upkeep. This photo is somewhat 'David Hockneyish' in its composition.

The birthday celebration had been planned as a lunch - up along the coast at a favourite haunt at Port Willunga. Suza
nne and I have returned to the Star of Greece for an annual birthday celebration for the last eight years. Perched high on the cliffs overlooking the Gulf of St Vincent this cafe/restaurant never disappoints. From this clifftop position, the waters of the Gulf are like a millpond, so calm that it's hard to imagine the severity of the storm which once claimed the lives of seventeen men. It was off this point that the Star of Greece came to grief in July 1888 as she set off for Great Britain with her cargo of wheat. Ove
r one hundred years on from that fateful storm we are now able the experience the
fine dining and views at the Cafe which bears her name. Sitting inside at our pre-booked table it feels more like Santorini than South Australia. Whiteblue are the dominant colours outside and inside amidst the retro brightly coloured decor we raised our glasses of cool crisp Sauvignon Blanc and watched the light and sea combine to paint a Rothko landscape.




It's hard to describe the sublime experience we shared that afternoon. The food was fresh, adventurous and perfectly balanced in flavour, style and taste - so I will let the pictures do the talking.


(L) Pork Belly, Seared Scallops and Pineapple Sorbet.
(R) Hand made Falafels in the foreground Kalamata Olive and Haloumi sauteed with onion and thyme.

mmm ...getting hungry? I will not include all the photos ...you will just have to visit and taste the extravaganza yourself!
Below (L) Hazelnut Cake with Berries and Mascarpone Mousse and (R) Macadamia and Banana Pudding with Caramel Sauce and Chocolate Sorbet.

The afternoon sun burned hot and tempted us outside for an after lunch spot of caffeine. Here we were able to gaze out at the blue shimmering waters of the Gulf and watch flocks of seagulls swoop and float in the early summer thermals swirling as if performing as post prandial for us over sated humans.
Another dreamy long lunch at the Star of Greece.

We meandered our way back to Victor Harbour through acres of emerald vineyards along the coast and up through the freshly cut hay paddocks and gently rolling hills of the peninsula. Stately Red gums and Stringy Barks lined the winding roads that were edged with wild
Penstimon, Lupins and 'egg and bacon' wild flowers. every now and then the landscape revealed a splash f purple from early blossoming Salvation Jane or the vivid yellow of a field of Canola. Newly shorn sheep lazed around the paddocks while queues of Jersey cows lined up eagerly at dairy for their turn to be milked. The countryside is still washed a lush green with only a hint of the searing summer awaiting the landscape.

An early sea fog was rising rapidly from the Great Southern ocean and we finally arrived home to spend a lazy afternoon reflecting on life, the universe and everything from our perch on the balcony overlooking Rosetta Head commonly known as the Bluff. To end this days adventure here is a photo of Ari and Agtet taken by Gary at the top of the Bluff.





Keep posted for another adventure !