I'm exhausted

This travel thing is quite exhausting for the frail and elderly like myself- I think I am trying my best to fool myself that I am 30 not near 60 years old... the spirit is in tact anyway.

Thought I would have a day off Blogging yesterday as I was completely Gaudi'd out. Started the day with a visit to La Pedrera also known as Casa Mila, situated on the gracious tree lined avenue of Passeig de Gracia. Commisioned by the Mila family, Gaudi as one of the most innovative architects of his time, created this absolutely amazing organic block of apartments. The project started in 1905 and has been called La Pedrera after its resemblance to a quarry. It is probably one of the most organic, undulating structures I have seen - it throbs with life, each wall, each window each minute decorative detail oozing life and beauty. Gaudi was said to have conceived the structure as a living organism of constant movement ... ready to evolve with the passing of time.

The whole experience was a blow out - as you can imagine my cameras worked overtime - From the staircase to the apartment on view on the 5 level - to the incredible parabolic arched attic ...and wait there's more - just as you think you have seen it all you climb the winding white stairwell to the rooftop wonderland of chimney pots - sweeping views over the Barcelona landscape - changes through the ages -Montjuic, Parc Guell, Barcelona Cathedral, Santa Maria del Mar. the unfinished Sagrada Familia, The Torre Agbar ....

I was totally finished - mentally, physically and emotionally by the the experience - somehow either madness or desperation took hold and I found myself at the Sagrada Familia. Now, my better judgement had strongly hinted at avoiding this site - I had been fascinated by it in 1990 - and I think it should have been left as is - but unfortunately the meddling yanks and Japanese have invested in its completion - it is now sadly turning into a extravaganza in bad taste. I regretted this visit but it was a lesson in when to stop something.

Attentione! Attentione!!!! we thought the two women approaching us were about to spin us some yarn to steal from us - but they were trying to give us a couple of free Barcelona Touristica Bus tickets - this found us collapsng on an open top bus for a couple of hours. We cruised through the suburbs in the searing heat, through places we may have never been - and as luck would have it I found myself right out side the Nou Camp home of my beloved FC Barcelona. An exciting treat which did not seem to have any impact on Adele.

Back at the ranch - Banys Orientales finally time to sample a Paella - and it lived up to the expectation - washed down with a rather refreshing Sangria Cava (made with Champagne rather than red wine)

To bed - glad to report the Olive Leaf extract has worked -my cold has disappeared!

Monday 6th - GIRONA

After trying to get out of town for 2 hours we finally got to Barcelona Sants Estacion and found our selves on the RENFE service to the ancient town of G irona. The city dates back to ancient Roman times and layer upon layer of history is evident as one walks around the historic center. Girona is situated on the Riu Onyar and the river is lined by pastel coloured houses - displaying there washing, elaborate iron work, dilapidated shutters and ageing joinery. As the town rises, layers of its civilization can be traced all the way up to the incredible Cathedral de Girona. the houses by the river were built nto replace the damage done by the French siege in 1809.

I had been looking forward to this visit for some time and I was not disappointed.

The Cathedral is like I have never seen before - and I have seen quite a few medieval structures such as this. Imposing, empathic, omnipresent at every angle of view of the city, the catherdral flaunts its outer volume above the old Girona - it almost seems to crush the houses - pushing them to the side at its feet. The construction by its medieval architects served as a fortress at the peak of the lie of the land, just as the original town of Gerunda founded in 80-70 bc was placed at this very location as a fortress. The Moors were here - and so were the Arabs - evidence of all of these cultures still pervades the architecture, food, music and archeological fragments.


I certainly got my share of walking today - steps ... there were a few - but then again - too MANY to mention. I have survived - we sat down to a rather nice meal in a small resturant within the old town - comfit of Salmon, Squid in garlic and olive oil, Creme Caramel and coffee- we were too exhausted to risk alcohol! Aqua con gasse was the order of the day!

I'm fairly close to kaput right now - of wonder, exhaustion, reflection, joy to be alive and very grateful to the universe for giving me the opportunity to experience these wonders.

To night I turned on Eurosport channel and lo and behold there was the Saints V Cats match being replayed - I thought I had consumed too many Vodka and Melocoton (peach) juices!!!! but no - here it was in real life - they (the Cats) did try and sad as it was to lose I think it was a good thing - well - that's what I'm telling myself - the loss seems less painful from Barcelona! just as it was less of a joy to experience the Grand Final from Berlin in 2007.

Tomorrow is the last day in Barca - a last Gaudi experience and one more visit to La Boquiera for a final sumptious feast of cherries, figs and churros .... and then the Tour de Franca arrives in town and I leave. I will try a final post from paradise -

Love to all L xx

Conferencing and post-conferencing ...

Learning Conference 2009



Well the day finally arrived - and paper delivered - technology worked and from the reaction of the audience and feedback I could say it was a success.

One woman said " now I finally know why I came to the conference- to see this presentation" (this was a great compliment). I was rather humbled by the feedback which was enthusiastic and generous. Some people were in tears - others wanted instant techo lessons on digital story telling! I managed to get a couple of invitations- one to work with kids in New York, a University in India, , and a community center in the UK - now I just have to finish the bloody PhD and take up some of these offers. this is the first time I have shown this short film so it was a good way to guage audience in terms of hitting the mark - I guess I hit it!

You may have noticed that as a result of being 'beseiged' after the presentation I have started another Blog - Landscape of Story. (not complete yet) Many people were keen to follow my work and communicate - I think it will be a great idea to weave a quilt of peoples stories over time - Terry you will be pleased to know that I am finally getting that Blog we talked about 2 years ago going.

Adele's presentation on Journals also went well and after the conference we made our way back to the Xampaynet for a very long lunch - washed down by too many local champagnes (the specialty of the House) Met some interesting characters, joined in the Catalan Saturday afternoon chaos and celebration ... nearly got robbed twice!!!! and finally staggered back to Hotel Banys to watch the Tour de France and sleep.

Woke up at 8.00 pm and hit the streets around the magnificent old Cathedral of Barcelona, listened to a Spanish classical guitarist busking in the rear enclave outside the church - superb accoustics -the magical strains filled the evening air as they wafted into the twilight past gargoyles, gothic spires now silhouetted against the darkening sky and the magical rainbow colours of the 'bubble thrower' as he mesemerised kids in a courtyard. Sometimes it is good to be alive!

Unfortunately, I have now got cold developing - boring - probably as I have finally relaxed after the conference. Off to bed and when I awake I hope I have good news about the CATS..... GO CATTERS!!!

In Visual Overdrive on a Gaudi Afternoon

After another attempt at finding something interesting at the conference I resorted to Picasso, Tapas and a beer at the famous El Xampanyet (this tiny tiled bar has been favourite of the Catalans and my good self - I first came here in 1974)

A few anchovies and tomato bread washed down with a cold beer was just the ticket before the assault on Parc Guell in the 32 degree heat.
Some you may be familiar with the Parc, but for those who have not been here - I offer you a small history - and then I must let the sample of photos do the talking -

In 1910 Eusebi Guell commisioned Gaudi to lay out a private housing estate on the hill above Barcelona. After just a couple of houses,the project fell through. However, based loosely on the Apollo project in Delhi Gaudi made ingenious use of curves and contours to create viaducts of natural stone and create this beautiful public space high over the city.


The garden planting gives you thge illusion of waves of silver - olive trees, Cicads, Oleanders, Bouganvilleas tumble caressing the stony edges.

Many of these structures ended up covered by colourful mosaics (trencadis) helped by the architect Josep Jujol. The whole thing is beyond description in a Blog so I won't even try - safe to say the entrance pavillions have to be seen to be believed and the Square with its huge serpentine bench covered in exquistite mosaics which winds itself all around this huge square - great views over Barcelona - and this was apparantly one of the first collages in the world.

The Square is held up by a Hypostyle Hall of 86 columns - a bit too conventional and out of keeping with Gaudi style - but the ceiling which is fluted with waves of white mosaic have four mosaic representations of the sun.

Gaudi lived in one of the houses while he worked on projects for Guell and only keft to stay on site at the Sagrada Familia when he commenced this project.

His house, now the museum is absolutely over the top.

It's a wonder I haven't killed several tourists who have a clever knack to irritate me beyond description - why can't thye just GO AWAY!

Neverthe less, I think I took almost 400 photos - it was a very Gaudi afternoon!

Too tired - must go to bed as the Paper is tomorrow - I'll leave you with a quote from Miguel Cervantes from Don Quixiote de la Mancha - It says more than I could drum up but manages to resonate with my thoughts:

"Barcelona, an archive of courtesy, a house for foreigners, a hospital for the poor, the land of the brave, a revenge for the offended and a fine correspondence for stable friendships, and in place and beauty, unique'

I think you should all try and get here in this lifetime

Lxx

Have I reallly been here only 2 days?

It's a week since I left the creature comforts of Orchard St and commenced this journey, theorteically 'out of the comfort zone' - but only 2 days in Barcelona and not only do I feel at home - I have even surprised myself with memory of place and language! well it may be all the Sangria being consumed ... loosens up the cobwebs.

Sorry to say - the Conference is a fizzer - very disappointing and even more boring than I had imagined possible - most people are keen to present and escape. I am not on till Saturday - perhaps everyone will have succumbed to the Catalan sunshine and left by then. However, the network thing has worked and I have met a couple of inetersting people.



As you can see - beautiful venue - bad conference.

My patience ran out and once again I found muself compelled to explore the finer things of life.

First up on the agenda was the Palau Guell. This was Gaudi's first commissioned work for Eusebi Guell (his patron) At this stage Gaudi even though an inexperienced architect had a limitless budget for the project. From the street there is little evidence of what awaits one inside. The brick work is astounding - the fecund and sensous layering of bricks - how could any one get off on bricklaying .. well you should see this to believe it - you msy then join in my over enthusiasm.

These parabolic archways were the first hint of Gaudi's love of curves which as we know he used to excess in later architectural projects.

The rooftop shows his playful use of colour anf form in his mosaic chimneys. Unfortunately much of the rest of this house is under renovation till 2010 - guess I'll have to come back again.

The wrought iron work is pretty amazing too - and if anyone was able to capture the spirit and art of the modernista - Gaudi did in his metal work - take a look at this -

Just outside the university I stumbled into this amazing courtyard /cloister of Moorish influence - this is the sort of thing that is so mind boggling - not even on my list - but managed to spend an hour there - mind you I got moved on by the gardener - and told not to photograph by the security guard - but I love a challenge - and here are a couple of the results:

The sun was getting very hot again - so a Taxi to the Ramblas to introduce Adele to the delights of St Josep La Boquiera Mercat - to all you market and food afficianados - you haven't lived till you see this one - hard to explain really - it is a total assault on the senses - purple curvaceous figs - sweet and dripping, the most diverse range of melons of every shape and hue, red pomegranites, plums, peaches, apricots the size of tennis balls, cherries that defy description - mangoes, avacadoes, pear, .....and so it goes

AND GUESS WHAT - no sign of waxing and cool storage - they actually taste like sun ripened REAL fruit!



Then of course there were the meat, fish, cheese, bread sections - each one of them proudly displaying their wares in the most artistic form and colour - Now and then one would stop - buy a snack of cod fish cakes - a fresh fruit juice - say black cherry and mango - or lime and pineapple, or some churros (spanish donuts) to keep me going !



Before you know it we had walked for four hours .... needing respite of a siesta - all the shops close then anyway - what a sensible way to behave .. I made my way back to the hotel for a kip.

The evenings are long - the light soft, the cool breezes now blow across the harbour and push away the hot air of the day from the old town Time to settle in for a long evening of Tapas and Sangria in the small Placa outside the hotel - Quite well known - The Taller de Tapas prides itself in regional cuisine - it uses the fresh produce of the Boquiera known as cuina de mercat - it has a spectacular array of choices and the hardest thing is making just that - a choice -

Tonight we had some delectable ham croquettes, grilled green asparagus, bread with fresh tomato spread on it, Malagan baby squid (my favourite) and a simple salad of quince paste, rocket and shaved goats cheese - washed down by 2 half litre vats of Sangria - I,m starting to sound like an alcoholic - but it's just the done thing. The meal was finished off with the best Creme Catalan imaginable ... ther's going to have to be a lot of walking to beat this lot of calories - especially as the breakfasts at Hotel Banys are rather extravagant.

A sample of the culinary fare tonight ....






I'm almost getting indigestion looking at the photos - rather sated ... I feel like the two hour walk after dinner has not quite worked off this lot!


The summer night was just right for a stroll down a few new streets in the Barri Gottic - many people outside - and as the lights go on inside the nbuildings the atmosphere becomes more intersting - there are shutters but no one ever closes them - unkike our obsession in Oz with privacy ! the Catalans love to sit out late into the night talking and sharing food and wine. I have certainly done my share immersion into the culture today!

Exhausted again - and really appreciating being in a country where no one asks how to spell my surname AND they pronounce it right!




Love Lxx

HEAT WAVE In the City that never sleeps.

HOLA !


Well I'm sure some of you may have heard we are experiencing a heatwave here - 35 in Barcelona- luckily tempered by the sea breeze.

The Conference started today - hundreds of people - total chaos and quite frankly nothing that has grabbed my interest totally. Perhaps it is just that here I am in Barcelona - and despite the fact that the University is a wonderful venue - it is hard to be totally engaged if the papers are - lets say BORING. Never mind - I shall overcome!




After a day of it I have had a wonderful time wandering around the Quarter known as El Born. The markets are currently closed for renovation but still manages a couple of snaps.








The amazing Cataluyan Gothic edifice of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar occupies a huge part of the quarter. It truly is a beautiful building - and given it took only 55 years to build (amazing for medieval times) it has managed to keep a flowing synchronicity to its architecture inside and outside (often lost over time and the power brokers)

The interior is awsome in its simplicity - the choir housing was burned down in the Civil War and somehow it seems more beautiful without the architectural clutter.


Ialso went a bit ga ga over the many stunning stained glass windows - but the Rose window over the west nave is the most beautiful.

It was simply too stifling to do much more - Dragging ourselves to the Picasso Museo at Montacada was as far as I could go - this had been the scene of my confrontation with security guards in 1974, when fleeing from protests I had got involved in during the move to overthrow Franco - (amazing what one gets involved in when young and filled with ideals - sometimes I mourn the loss of this energy) At the time I had sought refuge in the museum and fell asleep! ... I'm afraid it may have happened again today- tooo tired - will try for another day.

Made my way to the watefront in search of some cool air and sustenance - My last trip to Barcelona was just before the olympics for the Feminist Book Fair in 1990 with Renate, Sue and Colleen- the waterfront has completely changed - I'm not too sure whether I like it at all - imagine a very, very large Geelong Waterfront combined with Docklands- UGH! Here's a taste in pictures:


The atmospheric fishing 'village' of Barceloneta as it was known is all but gone - pushed out past the 'reclamation' for the olympics - we now have an Imax, Mc Donalds blah blah Yuk!

the area was originally designed in 1753 to re house people made homeless by the first reclamation. It was laid out on a grid system and later housed fisherman and their families. The narrow streets were filled with great fish resturants as I recall in 1974b and 1976 on previous visits, I think in 1990 they had started to tear things down - One of the most famous and a favourite spotsof mine being the Sete Portes - Much of the area has now been taken over by rip off touristy Bars and resturants. Sadly Sette Portes is now so expensive I haven't got a hope in hell of re-visiting - I wonder what some of its more famous guests would think now? Che Guevara, or Winston Churchill?? ... any way you never know I might just have to lash out and sample another one of their 10 famous Paellas and it would be good to just walk those black and white matble tiles and sit in the light of the art nouveau lamps.

It's midnight and I'm stuffed - this blogginbg is sort of hard work - but I am enjoying communicating with you and also enjoy the occasional comments from some of you.

Hope you are surviving the cold - I'm sending you some warm thoughts

Love Lariane

Paradise re-visited

There's something quite magical about slipping into a city - like slipping into an old favourite coat - the comfort, the embracing nature of the familiar - Barcelona is all this to me - having lost none of its capacity to fill me with wonder and appreciation at its sheer beauty and warmth of the Catalan people and culture.

Having arrived at the new airport and making my way to the Hotel Banys Orientales I amazed myself about how much I actually remembered - little details and landmarks that I have obviously carried around in my heart and mind for a long time. The Hotel, situated in the wonderful winding medieval lanes of the Barri Gottic is even more charming, chic and designer than I had imagined Every small detail has been attended to in the renovation in the Modernisme/Deco tradition. Pure Luxury!

Having landed in the lap of luxury, I quickly unpacked and made my way down through the alley ways of the old city. A hustle and bustle of people shopping in the colourful and very intersting shops - no sign of a supermarket - what a relief! Many scrumptious temptations of the sweet and savoury kind ... and of course designer everything. Of most interest for me are some of the small antique print shops and art suppliers.
Strolled down the Rambla (from an Arabic name Ramla meaning dry river bed) for the uninitiated - this is the one of the most vibrant and famous walking strips in the world. Unfortunately, like so many places it has become too touristy for my likes. Turned off and headed to the stunning 1850's Placa Reial - a Square adorned with palms, and neo-classical architecture and lamps - two of whuch were designed by Antoni Gaudi. Settled in for the free 'theatre of life' unfolding before me - jugglers, lovers, piano accordionists .... literally every shape, size and type of human being..not to mention the dogs! I'll let you visually take in my calorie consumption!!!!

Later in the evening I was finally joined by Adele who arrived in Barcelona via a drop off (Tomas) in Lisbon. We continued in the manner I had already grown accustomed to - feasting on a variety of Tapas washed down by copius and refreshing vats of Sangria.

We wandered back to the hotel , rambling through the ancient laneways which had now taken on an eerie feeling - neon lights, shuttered shops and cobblestones lit by the exquisite lamps painted a a rather gothic atmosphere.

Stumbled into the hotel and did not need much more than a shower to collapse into bed - Tomorrow the conference .... and Gaudi of course!!

Love L