It's been good to finally have a place to stay for more than just a few nights, but it has also meant that I have managed to get into little routines that reminded me of living in England in the 70's. One of the things I abhor - is the peak hour rush on the Tube..and much to my dismay, I have managed to get caught up in it all too often. I think someone forgot to tell London Transport that they don't need the heating systems on!Anyway, yesterday was the day I realised my need to explore the architecture of the relatively new Jubilee Line. I made my way down to N Greenwich Station where I inspected the Millenium Dome (O2) and after a security check was allowed in. I was busy 'snapping away' when I was stopped by 2 security guard who insisted that professional photographers were not permitted - I lost my case and left.
Commissioned to mark the beginning of the new Millennium, the Millennium Dome was intended as a celebratory, iconic space with flexiblity and was designed by Richard Rodgers and partners - I have talked about this architect before - especially about his work in Berlin. The Millennium Dome is the largest single-roofed structure in the world. Externally it appears as a large white marquee with 100 m-high yellow support towers, one for each month of the year, or each hour of the clock face, representing the role played by Greenwich Mean Time.
As I emerged from the very stylish N Greenwich station, I was impressed by the sheer size and elegance of the dome - however due to a lot of construction work around, the grey sky and the fact that you really need to be far above to appreciate it - my photos cannot do it justice.
Back to the Jubilee Line ... The Jubilee line is the Underground's newest line, but serves stations which originally opened over 100 years ago.
Architecture of the stations on the extension can only be described as spectacular. All have vast tracts of space - a number of world famous architects were employed at the various stations resulting in a statement of importance not seen on the Underground since Charles Holden's designs of the 1930s. Canary Wharf is arguably the largest, and probably most impressive - I had a personal interest in this one as a friend of mine Rodney Uren had worked on this project with Norman Foster.
Stations on the rest of the line have a variety of styles ranging from late 1970s at Baker Street and south to Charing Cross, through late 1930s style at Kilburn. After several hours of going up and down escalators, photographing metal, concrete, glass and tiles to the dulcit tones of "this is a Jubilee Line".... and "Mind the Gap" I had had enough.
I did take one diversion at Canary Wharf - the sun had come out momentarily - so thought I would try the DLR to Greenwich - I was so close to the Prime Meridien - I really should venture there. The DLR (Light Rail)
is a wonderful small train that snakes its way above ground and the harbour - weaving in and out through the awesome development of the old docklands.
This is an amazing example of re-development - and, architects in Melbourne should heed some lessons.When I first arrived at Greenwich I was horrified by what I saw - fish and chip shops, kebabs, tacky tourist souvenier outlets - you name it - and yet if you look beyond this mess there are all the hallmarks of what must have once been a very old and historic village and Naval port of importance.
It is best known for its maritime history and as giving its name to the Greenwich Meridian (0° longitude) and Greenwich Mean Time. The town became the site of a Royal palace, the Palace of Placentia from the 15th century, and was the birthplace of many in the House of Tudor, including Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.
The Palace was rebuilt as the Royal Naval Hospital for Sailors by Sir Christopher Wren and his assistant Nicholas Hawksmoor. These buildings became the Royal Naval College in 1873, The University of Greenwich now occupies most of the property.
Another point of interest was the Greenwich Markets - I strolled around the perimeter but was not willing to tackle the tacky tourist crowds
.One of the things I did do however was to take the lift down, down, down, to the foot tunnel under the Thames and walk to the other side of the PM ... this was a very eerie experience - and once on the other side I had to fight off feelings of claustrophobia to get back.
Unable to cope with any more underground ... I succumbed to a Thames Clipper ride back to London Bridge for a river view of the city. The development and renovation of all the old docks and adjactent warehouses is absolutely amazing - every shape, size and material has been used - but much of the original features have been retained to preserve integrity. As I gazed at the muddy Thames and looked at the bank to bank development, I recalled with a smile the words of William Morris:
"...and dream of London small white and green,
the clear Thames bordered by its gardens green."
I coudn't risk the weather getting any better than it was - that is : no rain at least - so decided to walk towards Tower Bridge along the Thames path to peruse two more architectural projects on my list. The Thames Path runs for 184 miles (294km) from its source at Kemble in the Cotswolds to the Thames Barrier in East London. More London the clear Thames bordered by its gardens green."
He'd be having nightmares now!
Riverside is another of Foster and Partners (by now you may realise that the man has a stranglehold on architecture in the western world). Still under construction it is another glass and steel edifice designed to reflect the environemt especially the sky and river.London has certainly embraced glass and steel as the hallmark of the new millennium. London's new City Hall is not something simple as it is often desvribed - like a sphere, or an egg.
It is something that resembles a drop of water being blown over by a puff of air. It has movement and life -Each level is offset slightly from the one below, hanging over one side of the building.
The result is a slightly curving side, and a rapidly curving side. Apparently this is an energy-saving feature, as the building is angled to take advantage of sunlight in the winter, and avoid it in the summer. And ...yes you guessed it ...another one for Norman Foster!By now I was nearing falling over - but not to be defeated, I made my way over Tower Brideg past the Tower of London and wondered what Henry VIII's two wives Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard would have thought of all the throngs of tourists as they languished in the Tooer awaiting their deaths ??? Henry executed two of his wives at the Tower of London. Anne Boleyn, Henry’s second wife, had proved unable to provide him with the son he so desperately sought. Anxious to marry again, he accused Anne of adultery and treason; Catherine Howard, Henry’s fifth wife, was quite possibly guilty of the same charge...has history changed that much? well, perhaps not execution but the courts still leave women with a battle to prove innocence.
Making my way back to Liverpool Street I was once again struck at the way in which The Gherkin punctuates the London skyline at every angle - still no blue sky!
Finally gave way to the madness of the Underground in rush hour annd found myself at Diwanas where I met Dylan and Tessa for a Dosa.
The trip was worth it but the trip home was a nightmare - suffused by nostalgia of days gone by - much like the day had started, I boarded a 134 bus to Tottenham Court Road - I used to spend hours on this route many moons ago. Sadly not much has changed, the bus arrived after half an hour - 3 of them in a row - then there was a diversion via Regent Street - shopaholics Paradiso - filled with grotty tourists - GET ME OUT OF HERE! I was very pleased to see Lynton Rd. When Matthew got home at 10.00 I was already in bed ... and as has become the case this week - he has come in to say hello - sat on the piano stool and I have recounted the day - Each day I usually start with ...Today, I died and went to heaven but it's true ..each day reveals another gem ...I wonder what today will bring? and will I have enough lives to last the distance?...stay tuned.
No comments:
Post a Comment