Wednesday, July 8, 2009

The Last Post from Barcelona


Well I've almost achieved all the things I had on the list - missed out on the Joan Miro and Antoni Tapies artwork - just means I will have to come back again.

Saved the best till last - Casa Batlo was absolutely out of this world and to try and describe it to you would be a travesty - perhaps a little snapshot and then I know I will have to contribute something towards a ressurection of the DPS (Dead Photograper's Society), when I return.

In 1904, the industrialist Josef Batlo commissioned the by now, successful Gaudi to renovate a block of apartments he had acquired on the fashionable Passeig de Gracia. I had remembered seeing it in 1990 - however, this morning when I first cast my eyes on this amazing structure, the organic forms, colours and fantastic chimney rooftop - it took my breath away. In fact true to form, I nearly got run over by traffic crossing the road! Wouldn't want to come to the same demise as Gaudi!

It is bold and unconventional and is said to represent St George killing the scaly dragon - and this seems quite real when you look at the way the rim arches against the sky and silhouettes alongside the Mallorcan Cross which points to the four directions of the compass.

The light well drowns you in a blue dream land - a bluish light found in the oceans is created through clever use of a gradation of tint used in the blue tiles in the light well. Art nouveau iron work curves wrap themselves cuvaceously around marble, wood - tamed by the suffused light - throwing rainbows at your feet - the swirling ceiling embossed in organic rhythms sends you dizzy with delight ...

Fragments of glass and ceramic tumble in waterfalls overflowing with joy. In keeping with his philosophy of blending the inside/outside of the building in fluidity - Gaudi has managed to create a univese in which the balconies and terrace blend into the facade seamlessly.



The rooftop is one of his most inspired works - a combination of playfulness and organic symmetry based on animal/natural form.

The attic is a unique space devised by Gaudi to generate a cavernous chamber resisting the need for a supporting structure that impedes - and creating an ingenious aesthetic through numbers of white parabolic arches.



This is truly a combination of functionalism and poetry - I will dine out on this feast for a long time ...

After the Gaudi experiences of the past few days, we thought it was impossible to ever top the Casa Batlo experience - but then this IS Barcelona - and as we walked towards the Palau de Musica de Catalunya which I had long awaited to see - we passed many a gracious mansion along the tree lined Passeig de Gracia. The most notable of these being Casa Lleo Morera - the only domestic project by Domenech Montaner - another notable architect of the Modernista movement and the architect of the phantasamorgorical Palau de Musica.



Unfortunately I was now allowed to take any photos here - so these are illegal!!! but once again the exprience is beyond description - my dream is to return and hear a concert at this venue.

The last night has been spent with a couple of glasses of Cava at the Xampanayet and tapas as entree ( we toasted you Diane as requested). Finally we broke out and indulged in an up market dinner at Senor Parellada at the Hotel Banys. Black Olives and a leafy green salad followed by Duck with Figs (sorry vegos - couldn't resist it) accompanied by a fine Catalan Rose. We finished with coffee and a magnificent Lemon Sorbet to cleanse the tongue. ...

Hola, Adieu .... on to London Town tomorrow after an early breakfast at La Boquiera market.

This has been one of the most magical 9 days of my life - hope you have enjoyed the ride!






Love Lxx

4 comments:

  1. Hi Lariane

    Yes we have really enjoyed your blog, sorry taken me so long to make a comment, have been at home with kids and Swine Flu.
    Can't wait to have a proper catch up and get the full guided tour of your spiritual home. What a fantastic story of your journey AND EATING!!! We are really missing you. Lots of love Juliet xxx

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  2. Wow, I've enjoyed your enthusiasm, your architectural study tour, the gastronomic journey and photos of Barcelona. What next?

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  3. Just back in London - off to the north tomorrow

    Goos to hear from you Terry Lx

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  4. I really want to see all your photos in a larger format. Loved the Gaudi - Casa Batlo looks absolutely amazing, even in this format. Thank-you for such vivid descriptions.

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